Aragon Regeneron T-100 Hands-On Review
Since my earliest memories, I’ve always been drawn to the captivating glow of watches. The assurance of being able to read the time in any lighting condition often played a crucial role in my choice of timepieces. I had owned several models with tritium illumination in the past, but their larger case sizes, typically over 44 millimeters, made them feel too bulky for my liking. It’s amusing how my perception has evolved over time, as I used to be unfazed by such dimensions, and my wrist would comfortably bear watches with case widths of 44-45 mm. Clearly, tastes change with age. However, I have recently come to the decision that a case size of 42 millimeters in diameter suits me best. With this in mind, I set my sights on a specific goal: to find a watch featuring tritium tubes, a case no wider than 42 mm, and an affordable price point.
It was during this search that I came across images of upcoming releases from Aragon, a renowned American watchmaker. Their portfolio boasted numerous intriguing timepieces with distinctive aesthetics, but the majority of their options fell within the 44-50 mm range, rendering them unsuitable for my preferences. Nevertheless, the manufacturer had heeded the feedback of its customers and decided to create a model available in 42 mm. The watch instantly captivated me with its design and enticing price, leading me to consider adding it to my collection. However, a moment of hesitation prompted me to double-check the specifications, where I discovered a thickness of 15 mm, which initially deterred me. Nonetheless, the allure of the Aragon watch lingered in my thoughts, and I ultimately took the leap of faith, placing an order.
Package
A generously sized open box arrived containing the watch, boasting an outer surface made of eco-leather in a captivating shade of navy blue. Its edges are adorned with meticulously sewn red thread, creating a striking contrast against the deep blue hue. The distinguished Aragon logo is elegantly embossed on the top section, adding a touch of sophistication. Notably sturdy in appearance, the box reveals a plush fabric cushion within, accompanied by an instructional manual and, of course, the timepiece itself.
Case
Let’s begin with a case study as our starting point. As mentioned in the introduction, the case is not the thinnest one available (measuring almost 16 millimeters in thickness using a caliper), but the downward-facing lugs effectively minimize this measurement.
Contrary to my initial concerns, the watch fits comfortably on the wrist and provides a pleasant wearing experience. The lug-to-lug size is proportionate to its width, measuring 47.5mm, making it suitable for wrists ranging from 16 to 20 centimeters in circumference. The space between the lugs measures 22 millimeters, which, personally, if I were the designer, I might have preferred it to be 20 millimeters. Nonetheless, the height of the case compensates for the perception of the bracelet being slightly too wide.
The craftsmanship of the case exhibits exceptional quality. The lugs’ edges have been meticulously trimmed and polished, resulting in an aesthetically pleasing outcome. Positioned at the 3 o’clock mark, there is a sizable crown that has been intricately milled. The crown is securely screwed in place, as is expected of diving watches. When unscrewed, there is no noticeable looseness, a common issue even among high-end timepieces.
An interesting feature is the generous amount of lume applied to the side of the crown. I often find myself admiring its subtle glow, particularly when transitioning from a brightly lit area to a shaded room. It provides a gentle luminescence that illuminates the wrist. The case bottom is sealed with a transparent back, allowing us to observe the movement in action. Along its circumference, we can find details regarding the watch’s specifications. It is important to highlight its water resistance rating of 200M, which is a respectable value and more than sufficient for everyday usage.
Bezel
The bezel of the Regeneron timepiece is crafted entirely from steel, exhibiting a design that slightly protrudes beyond the case’s outline. Its grip ensures a secure hold, eliminating the risk of slipping from your grasp. The bezel functions smoothly, offering a light and pleasant resistance akin to my experience with the Tag Heuer Aquaracer. Notably, the Regeneron’s bezel boasts superior alignment compared to the aforementioned Aquaracer. The milled indices on the bezel perfectly harmonize with those on the dial. The bezel markers are filled with SuperLuminova C3 luminescent material, reminiscent of only two other watches I have encountered in my horological journey—the Breitling Steelfish and the Helson Shark Diver.
I must confess that Aragon has truly pushed the boundaries with the luminescence on this timepiece. It is so intense that it seems to radiate endlessly! In daylight, the luminescent color closely resembles that of tritium sticks, while in the dark, it emanates a vibrant green glow.
Dial
The Aragon Regeneron watch features a highly debated element that has stirred controversy. Personally, I had reservations about whether the skeleton-style dial would appeal to me, as it seemed like a design phase I had moved past.
Nevertheless, a well-crafted dial of this nature intrigued me. Taking a leap of faith, I decided to embrace it, and I can confidently say that I have no regrets. It is through firsthand experience that one can truly appreciate the subtle nuances that renderings fail to capture. The dial itself is constructed with brushed aluminum and treated with a painted finish. It consists of three distinct layers.
The first layer showcases the skeletonized front of the Seiko NH70 movement, providing a fascinating glimpse into its inner workings. The subsequent layer takes the form of a pentagram-like structure, adding an intriguing aesthetic dimension. Lastly, there is a ring adorned with indices marked by T-100 tritium tubes and a printed minute scale.
The quality of tritium used in the Regeneron watch is truly commendable and rivals the luminosity found in Ball watches. The 6 and 12 indexes emit a vibrant yellow light, while the rest glow in green. The luminescence is quite potent, although its effect becomes more pronounced as the eyes adjust to darkness over time. The tritium tubes are evenly positioned, and no visible flaws are present in their attachment. If I were to nitpick, the only aspect I would modify is the placement of the tubes in the digit 6 index. In my subjective opinion, the gap between the vertical line and the remainder of the index should be minimized. However, this is merely a personal preference.
The hour and minute hands boast a matte finish and are equipped with green tritium tubes, while the second hand features an orange glowing tube, which undeniably adds a visually pleasing touch. The entire watch face is protected by K1 mineral glass, which, admittedly, is one of the few drawbacks. Nonetheless, it is important to acknowledge that this timepiece falls into the “budget” category, emphasizing affordability as a significant factor.
Bracelet
I must confess that I had a genuine curiosity about the bracelet’s quality. Often, when it comes to affordable timepieces, one can’t help but feel that the bracelet lacks substance, appearing hollow with concealed sides. However, the Aragon Regneeron watch exceeded my expectations. The bracelet boasts a substantial construction and sits perfectly on the lugs.
Notably, the middle links have been intricately shaped into small squares, adding an appealing aesthetic element to the entire watch. The clasp, adorned with the brand’s signature, also showcases exceptional craftsmanship. It features micro-regulation and double protection against accidental unfastening. The bracelet maintains a consistent width of 22 millimeters throughout its length, although it would have been preferable if the designers had tapered it down to 20 millimeters near the clasp. A tapered bracelet is generally considered more comfortable to wear, so the absence of such a design choice is the only flaw I can find. Despite this, the bracelet remains comfortable, and the 3.5 mm thickness of its links conveys a reassuring sense of durability.
Movement
The watch’s functionality is driven by the Seiko NH70A movement, which is derived from the widely acclaimed and popular Seiko NH35 movement. This construction is often favored by microbrands and others for skeleton or open heart watches, thanks to its partially exposed design. The balance operates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour, providing a power reserve of approximately 41 hours. With a total of 24 jewels, the NH70A movement incorporates a stop-second function and allows for manual winding through the crown to tighten the spring.
Summary
I have been wearing the Aragon Regeneron for several weeks now, and I must say that it has managed to keep me captivated. Despite its thickness of approximately 16 millimeters, it provides exceptional comfort on the wrist. The downward-contoured lugs contribute to this comfortable fit.
To my pleasant surprise, this watch exceeded my expectations, considering its price range of up to PLN 1000. I didn’t anticipate such impressive features in a watch equipped with tritium. It turns out that for this affordable price, one can acquire a timepiece with a remarkable luma, which emits a beautifully radiant glow. Additionally, the watch boasts a well-functioning and accurately centered bezel, along with a high-quality bracelet. Although it lacks a sapphire glass and a tapered bracelet, these omissions are not significant drawbacks, especially considering the reasonable price tag.